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7-...In English of Course... - Page 3

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    #Skincare | #Chanel uncovers powerful plants in global tour | @cosmetics @Chanel

    FROM LUXURY DAILY | FROM SATRAH JONES | JANUARY 5, 2017

    France’s Chanel is exploring the anti-aging secrets of three far-flung populations with a shared claim.

    The beauty brand’s newly released Blue Serum took inspiration from Blue Zones around the world, places where the locals live remarkably longer lives. In an effort to prove the claims of its product, Chanel is inviting consumers to journey to these locales in a series of short films.

    Chanel was reached for comment.

    FEELING BLUE

    Chanel’s Blue Serum is being touted by the brand as “a new horizon for skincare.”Explaining the inspiration and ingredient sourcing for this serum, Chanel filmed travel diaries to the Blue Zones that contributed to the product.

    Against footage taken in Costa Rica, a female narrator says, “You can feel the life force in everything and everywhere.” Portraying this energy are images of waterfalls amid greenery.

    chanel, blue serum, skincare, costa rica

    Still from Chanel's Blue Serum film

    The voiceover explains how Costa Rica’s green coffee can only be found in the country, which may contribute to the locals’ long lives.

    In Italy, the Mediterranean locale is said to be the home of centuries’ old olive trees.

    Chanel turns its attention to the sun in Greece, which it says is in everything. This includes soil, plants and the lentisk tree.

    chanel, blue serum, skincare, costa rica

    Discover the Power of Blue Serum - Chanel

    All videos include the statement, “It’s something special. Some call it a mystery. It’s just life.”

    These ingredients—sourced from Nicoya, Costa Rica; Sardinia, Italy and Ikaria, Greece, all hold antioxidant properties. According to the brand, a trial found the serum to reduce wrinkles, even skin tone and firm skin.

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    Tiffany procures retail solutions for Trump Tower-related security measures | @tiffanyandco @cotyincpr

    FROM LUXURY DAILY | DECEMBER 2016, 19

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    Tiffany & Co.’s Fifth Avenue flagship’s proximity to Trump Towers has resulted in an unlikely branding effort for the U.S. jeweler.

    The jeweler’s iconic flagship, known for its cameos in Hollywood films and its annual holiday windows, finds itself on the same block as Trump Towers, the Midtown Manhattan home of U.S. President-elect Donald Trump. Since the election results were announced Nov. 8, protesters have been picketing outside the building, causing the Secret Service and New York Police Department to heighten security along Fifth Avenue, just in time for the holiday season.

    "The truth is that politics and business do not mix, and when those worlds collide, good things rarely happen," said Rob Frankel, branding strategist & expert at Frankel & Anderson, Los Angeles. "'Cause marketing' is a huge myth, often alienating as many (or more) prospects than it might attract. "Overall, I see this less as a political statement and more along the lines of the signs you see posted when a store is remodeling, which proclaim 'Pardon our dust! We're open for business!'" he said. "Nobody really notices and business doesn't improve until the signs are removed and foot traffic returns to normal."

    Branded barricades
    As a result of the extra security measures, storefronts near Trump Tower’s, including Tiffany and Gucci, which has its New York flagship within the tower, have seen decreased foot traffic as barricades deter shoppers and worsen congestion on the already busy thoroughfare in Midtown Manhattan.

    Barricades along the street caused Tiffany to cancel its holiday window reveal. While the store remains in business with normal hours, its sales are expected to take a hit this year, according to CNBC.

    In addition to the imposing presence of the metal blockades, security personnel have also been on heightened alert. Individuals headed to the luxury stores around the tower are the only ones getting through to the sidewalk, but this means potential shoppers enduring questioning by police before they are allowed to pass (Trump’s midtown Manhattan base causes problems for luxury retail).

    Tiffany, for one, has partnered with the New York City Police Department to make the most of the security presence by designing branded covers for the police barricades.

    The barricades, dressed in Tiffany blue slipcovers, have been positioned from 57th Street around to the jeweler’s entrance on Fifth Avenue, thus creating a Tiffany “safe zone.”

    Doing so provides a pathway for passersby to view Tiffany’s annual holiday windows. While this solution ensures some consumers get to experience its windows, Tiffany likely missed out on the attention and crowds that make it a point to see its display this year.

    The placement of the branded barricades also allows consumers to enter the flagship through its main entrance. Prior to the barricades being set up, consumers were encouraged to use the jeweler’s side entrance facing 57th Street.

    In a statement the jeweler said: “Tiffany is in frequent communication with the New York Police Department and U.S. Secret Service regarding safety and security along the perimeter of our Fifth Avenue flagship. We remain open for business with regular hours and welcome customers to enter the store via our 57th Street entrance while any barricades along Fifth Avenue are in place.

     “Our iconic flagship store windows, which feature sparkling scenes of New York City at the holidays, are now on display for all to see. Our façade has also been illuminated as planned.”

    Alternate viewings
    A digital solution has also been implemented to ensure that consumers who would rather not visit in person due to the barricades and upped police presence can still experience the windows

    Tiffany, Louis Vuitton and Cartier are among the 18 New York storefronts getting a digital audience this holiday season with help from Google. Google’s “Window Wonderland” recreates the feeling of strolling outside iconic retailers on a consumers’ desktop computer, mobile phone or tablet.

    While about 5 million tourists descend on New York this time of year, many located in other cities, states or countries will not be able to get to see these in person, making this Google experience the next best thing.

    (...)

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    @Rituals Cosmetics extends its standalone stores presence in European #airports | @PLshopdinefly #beauty #promiseconsulting-blog

    PARU DANS AIRPORT-BUSINESS.COM | DECEMBRE 2016

    Rituals Cosmetics has opened a 44sqm landside store at Eindhoven Airport in partnership with Lagardère. The store is large enough to offer the full Rituals product range.

    Rituals opened two new standalone stores on 23 November – a 23sqm store in Vienna Airport’s Plaza operated in partnership with Welcome Trading, and a 44sqm landside store at Eindhoven Airport in partnership with Lagardère. The Vienna store offers all the brand’s best-selling products, while the Eindhoven store is large enough to offer the full Rituals product range.

    “These are both important new openings for us,” says Neil Ebbutt, Director Wholesale for Rituals. “It brings our portfolio of standalone airport stores to seven and reflects the commitment we have to investing in this channel with our own stores. Airports are without doubt one of the most important channels for us to showcase Rituals to an international audience. The fact that there are some great international retail operators to partner with also makes it that much easier to bring more Rituals standalone stores to airports. These stores also allow us to offer a much wider product range and we have over 400 in total, each one inspired by an ancient Eastern tradition to transform every day routines into more meaningful moments. They include body care, skin care, pure tea, scented candles and fragrance sticks.”

    The stores offer a lifestyle shopping experience, with passengers at Vienna and Eindhoven able to immerse themselves in the brand’s mantra – transform daily routines into meaningful rituals. On entering the store, travellers are offered herbal teas and the opportunity to experience the products through complimentary hand massages. Of course, the stores are currently stocked with a range of gift sets for Christmas.

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    Are cosmetics ads subtly telling women they are flawed and require fixing? | by @HelenRingrow @Palgrave_

    A lot has been made of how airbrushed images in cosmetics advertising campaigns are setting beauty standards that are biologically impossible. But does that apply to the language used in the ads as well?

    A lot has been made of how airbrushed images in cosmetics advertising campaigns are setting beauty standards that are biologically impossible. But does that apply to the language used in the ads as well?

    A linguist from the University of Portsmouth believes the choice of words might also play a subliminal role in encouraging women to see themselves as “flawed and needing to be fixed”.

    Helen Ringrow, a lecturer in Communication Studies and Applied Linguistics, says the underlying theme in advertisements for women’s cosmetics was the constant need to fix problems including dry hair, lack of glow and poor skin. She said: “The language used tells women their faces, hair and bodies are always falling below some imaginary standard. It makes women feel they’re never quite measuring up, never quite right. “It also creates problems we never knew we had, such as selling us deodorant which makes our underarm skin tone appear more even.”

    She says the multi-billion pound beauty industry “thrives on making women’s bodies appear to be a flawed commodity which cosmetics can fix”. As part of her research, Ringrow studied more than 400 beauty ads in Cosmopolitan and Elle magazines over a six-month period in 2011. She noted subtle linguistic differences in tone and language in French and English advertisements but the underlying messages were similar.

    Ringrow said: “The advertisements tell women that their bodies need endless work and that they are not quite good enough without the use of cosmetics.” She also added the advertising also relied heavily on scientific language, saying: “Women are bombarded by a cocktail of scientific words, sex and youthfulness in cosmetics advertising.

    “You’ll find bold claims for the power of something scientific-sounding, like peptides or bio-proteins, which are not always proven, especially not in the small quantities in which they are found in many cosmetics products.”

    Ringrow has revealed the results of her research in a book titled The Language of Cosmetics Advertising, published by Palgrave.

     

     

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    Les #cosmétiques pour hommes, marché d'avenir ? | #Canada @adetem @Loreal #promiseconsulting-blog

    Les produits de beauté pour hommes, un marché d'avenir et qui le restera? De nombreuses marques spécialisées ont éclos grâce au commerce électronique et la mode du hipster barbu mais soigné, sans pour autant faire de l'ombre aux géants des cosmétiques.

    PHOTO FOURNIE PAR TRIUMPH

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    ÉTIENNE BALMER
    Agence France-Presse
    Paris

    Karine Schrenzel, codirigeante du groupe français de vente en ligne spécialisé ShopInvest, a le sourire: son pôle de cosmétiques masculins devrait connaître une croissance de 65% cette année.

    «Un homme a deux barrières» face aux produits de beauté: «Il n'a pas forcément envie de passer un samedi après-midi à flâner dans les boutiques de cosmétiques, et il a une certaine pudeur, que le web permet complètement d'effacer», estime cette femme d'affaires interrogée par l'AFP.

    Sur ses deux sites spécialisés en la matière, MenCorner et Comptoir de l'homme, les produits les plus plébiscités sont des huiles à barbe, des autobronzants, des colorations pour cheveux, des crèmes minceur ou dépilatoires.

    «Ces produits sont très surpondérés sur internet» par rapport aux ventes en magasins, où dominent les classiques déodorants, gels douches, shampooings et autres produits de rasage, selon Mme Schrenzel, qui mise sur ces créneaux de niche pour se démarquer de la grande distribution et d'Amazon.

    Les grands groupes ont souvent des marques avant tout féminines, avec des gammes masculines venues par la suite. Des marques originales, créées dès le départ pour les hommes, «ont vraiment une carte à jouer», estime-t-elle.

    En 2015, le marché de la beauté pour hommes, ou «grooming» (hors produits de rasage, savons, dentifrices et parfums) représentait des ventes mondiales de 17,4 milliards d'euros, 30% de plus qu'en 2011, selon le cabinet d'études Euromonitor.

    Cependant, cela représente toujours moins de 10% du marché total des cosmétiques.

    Design dandy et rétro

    En Occident, les hommes ont longtemps été réfractaires aux produits de beauté. «Dans l'univers judéo-chrétien, l'esprit et le corps étaient complètement séparés», rappelle à l'AFP Michèle Verschoore, spécialiste en dermatologie cosmétique chez L'Oréal et auteure d'un Guide de la beauté au masculin, paru début 2016.

    Mais aujourd'hui, «l'idée venue d'Asie se globalise, il n'y a plus de tabou masculin sur le bien-être», surtout chez les jeunes, ajoute Mme Verschoore.

    Aux États-Unis, puis en Europe, de nombreuses marques indépendantes haut de gamme pour hommes sont apparues ces dernières années, en particulier dans le domaine du soin de la barbe, affectionnant souvent un design dandy et rétro, comme les britanniques Captain Fawcett ou Apothecary 87.

    Lames et Tradition s'inscrit dans la même veine. Lancée il y a un an et demi, cette petite marque française vend notamment des huiles à barbe estampillées «naturelles» et «made in France», principalement à des professionnels. «Les barbiers ça pousse comme des champignons», se réjouit Stéphane Couty, le fondateur et patron de cette TPE (très petite entreprise), qui cherche à se développer à l'export. «On a été rentable dès notre première année», ajoute cet ancien du BTP.

    Didier Arthaud, fondateur de la marque 66°30, est sur un créneau au développement plus lent, les crèmes de soin visage pour hommes, bio de surcroît. Il sera rentable cette année, pour la première fois depuis le lancement de sa marque en 2009.«On est sur la niche de la niche», car «globalement les hommes sont moins sensibles au bio que les femmes», en ne l'associant pas à l'efficacité qu'ils recherchent avant tout dans les cosmétiques, selon cet ancien cadre de grandes entreprises françaises.

    L'entrepreneur met en garde ceux qui verraient les cosmétiques pour hommes comme un nouvel Eldorado: «Les mentalités vont beaucoup moins vite que les marketeurs».

    Et les grands distributeurs sélectifs, tels Sephora, Nocibé ou Marionnaud, privilégient les poids lourds du secteur comme Biotherm (groupe L'Oréal), Clinique ou Clarins, relève-t-il.

    Enfin, quand un acteur indépendant commence à devenir intéressant, il finit souvent par être mangé par un gros poisson.

    Cet été, la marque américaine Dollar Shave Club, qui vend en ligne par abonnement des rasoirs et des produits de soin pour hommes, a été ainsi avalée pour un milliard de dollars par le néerlandais Unilever (Axe, Rexona, Dove...), leader mondial des cosmétiques pour hommes (hors rasage) devant le français L'Oréal.

     

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    Victory for Mail as microbeads in make-up are banned | @dailymail #makeup

    [LIRE L'ARTICLE EN ENTIER DANS LE DAILY MAIL]

    Victory for Mail as microbeads in make-up are banned: Minister calls on shoppers to boycott cosmetics with the tiny toxic beads

    Andrea Leadsom urged Christmas shoppers to boycott microbead products. The Environment Secretary promised an outright ban by next October. More than a quarter of cosmetics on the shelves contain the plastic additives

    A top minister last night urged Christmas shoppers to boycott cosmetics and personal care products containing microbeads as she promised an outright ban by next October.

    The vow by Environment Secretary Andrea Leadsom is a major victory for the Daily Mail.

    She will today begin a consultation on the need for a similar crackdown on other household goods containing the tiny toxic beads, such as washing powder and cleaning products.

    In the meantime, the Cabinet minister called on shoppers to check the list of ingredients on make-up and other products including toothpastes, face scrubs and shower gels before buying. More than a quarter of cosmetics on the shelves contain the plastic additives.

    Mrs Leadsom told the Mail: 'The UK has always been a leader in environmental protection and we take our responsibility to marine life – not only in our own seas, but around the world – very seriously'.

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    Bobbi Brown Is Leaving Her Namesake Cosmetics Line | @justbobbibrown @BobbiBrown #cosmetics #beauty #makeup

    BY RACHEL JACOBY ZOLDANRJACOBY13 | allure.com
    DECEMBER 19, 2016

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    In a move I didn't see coming, Bobbi Brown is leaving her namesake cosmetics line after 25 years, WWD reports. (I know, right?!) Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, owned by beauty giant Estée Lauder Companies (which recently acquired Too Faced Cosmetics as a part of a burgeoning brand portfolio that also includes Origins, M.A.C., and Clinique), will continue to exist, but Brown is expected to leave the company by the end of the year. (Read: like ten days from now.).

    And while we're sad that the creative genius behind Bobbi Brown Cosmetics (the Bobbi Brown—the one who sat in the backseat of an Uber with our beauty editor recently—more on that later) is leaving her brand, we know it's still in good hands as Peter Lichtenthal, global brand president, will continue to oversee the business in her absence. While Brown has yet to reveal her next move, sources speculated to WWD that she'll have a new business endeavor to focus on in 2017.

    But hang on. Let's pour one out for Bobbi Brown and her line for a second. I'd argue that she was not only one of the original pioneers of the natural beauty look, but rather the official inspiration for the no-makeup makeup movement that I actually live by. It's soft, pretty, and frankly unfiltered in a world where seemingly everything is Facetuned, Photoshopped, or "tweaked just a tiny bit." Fabrizio Freda, the CEO and president of the Estée Lauder Companies, told WWD that Bobbi Brown Cosmetics is a "global prestige cosmetics powerhouse, with a highly promising future, poised for its next chapter of growth."

    Exactly what that chapter will entail, of course, remains to be seen. And I'm still really jealous of Lexi, our beauty editor, who, yes, got to ride in an Uber with Bobbi and get her makeup done and of course emerged with that ethereal, lit-from-within, only-Bobbi-Brown-could-produce glow.

    Thank you, Bobbi Brown, for your 25 years of flawless skin and barely there makeup. Our faces salute you. Mine does, at least.

     

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    #Burberry added fuel to the conversation surrounding the "see-now, buy-now movement" | @buberry @adetem #luxury

    ARTICLE PARU DANS LE LUXURY DAILY | DECEMBER 2016 

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    Burberry's early adoption

    British fashion label Burberry came in behind Chanel [2016 LUXURY MARKETER OF THE YEAR],  placing as second runner's-up for its first-mover status.

    Burberry added fuel to the conversation surrounding the see-now, buy-now movement, announcing early in the year that it would be changing its runway show schedule. This move consolidated its presentations to two a year, showing men's and women's collections together (Burberry updates fashion calendar to meet global demand).

    The brand also took a different move when it enlisted Brooklyn Beckham to shoot a campaign, having the teenage son of David and Victoria Beckham capture the experience on Snapchat (Burberry targets younger market using Brooklyn Beckham, Snapchat).

    Burberry was became the first fashion label to create an Apple TV app, becoming the first brand to broadcast a fashion show on the platform (Burberry launches on Apple TV with menswear show live-stream. When launching the fragrance My Burberry Black, Burberry took advantage of a bevy of newer social media tools, such as Instagram Stories and a Snapchat filter, to create a mood around the scent.

    While unseated by Gucci in this year's L2 rankings, Burberry was positioned in second place, also showing Genius-level sill in digital.

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    #Chanel has made itself more relatable to consumers without sacrificing its prestige | @Chanel @adetem

    ARTICLE DU LUXURY DAILY | DECEMBRE 2016

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    First runner’s-up Chanel has made itself more relatable to consumers without sacrificing its prestige.

    The brand made moves to appeal to a younger audience, casting teens Lily-Rose Depp and Willow Smith in separate ad campaigns.

    With a continued focus on video content, Chanel introduced five new films in its “Inside Chanel” series. The brand also launched a new series of unscripted Beauty Talks, inviting personalities such as Gisele Bündchen and Keira Knightley to talk makeup and skincare with its global creative makeup and color designer Lucia Pica.

    Chanel, luxury, fashion, luxury daily

    Chanel’s social media efforts helped the brand top Brandwatch’s rankings of fashion companies, thanks to visibility and increased reach (Chanel, Lexus top social media performers in fashion, automotive fields). The same researcher also found it to be the most reputable brand on social media (Chanel most reputable brand despite low sentiment: report).

    The brand also got a nod in the beauty space, with an MBLM report finding it to be the most successful at creating intimacy and an emotional connection with followers (Chanel ranks at top of beauty industry’s brand intimacy chart: report).

    A key indicator of brand positioning and desirability, Chanel is one of the highest sellers on the secondhand luxury site The RealReal (Chanel, mega-brands dominate resale market as new sectors surge: report). Chanel was also one of the only brands to record growth in value in Millward Brown’s BrandZ report (Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Chanel only houses to record growth: report).

    Chanel, luxury, fashion, luxury daily

    Aside from its desirability as a brand to own, Chanel was named the most coveted place to work in a survey of millennials conducted by Women’s Wear Daily (www.luxurydaily.com/louis-vuitton-hermes-and-chanel-only-houses-to-record-growth-report/.

    Alongside digital efforts, Chanel courted younger clients with a backstage-themed pop-up. The brand also branched out into the conceptual, curating a daily content hub with i-D magazine (Chanel, i-D magazine advocate for female artistic talent on daily content hub).

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    Gucci is 2016 Luxury Marketer of the Year | @Gucci @adetem

    Italian fashion label Gucci is Luxury Daily’s 2016 Luxury Marketer of the Year for its revamped advertising image under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele.

    Gucci won over first runner’s-up Chanel and second runner’s-up Burberry. All three brands were able to adapt and connect with a new generation of consumers while not losing focus on their luxury positioning.

    The Luxury Marketer of the Year award was decided based on luxury marketing efforts with impeccable strategy, tactics, creative, executive and results. All candidates selected by the Luxury Daily editorial team and from reader nominations had to have appeared in Luxury Daily coverage this year. Judging was based purely on merit.

    Gucci made over

    2016 marked the first full year with Mr. Michele at the head of Kering-owned Gucci. Aside shifting the brand’s apparel and accessories design, he has made his mark on the brand’s marketing, replacing an overt sex appeal with a more romantic femininity.

    This included a new effort for Gucci Guilty starring Jared Leto that portrayed a subtle sexuality (Gucci’s visual representation of fragrance hopes to shatter society norms) and ensemble runway collection campaigns shot in destinations such as Berlin, Tokyo and Britain’s Chatsworth House.

    gucci, cruise campaign, chatsworth house, luxury, luxury daily

    Playing off motifs created by Mr. Michele, Gucci unveiled a series of artistic initiatives that deconstructed these themes. Its customizable Ace Sneaker was the subject of creative short films, while its codes became the basis for a multiplatform project that spanned a physical space in Tokyo and online mediums (Gucci makes room for reinterpreting brand codes).

    Allowing consumers to put their own spin on these new icons of the brand, Gucci also launched customization programs for select products.

    During 2016, Gucci opened new headquarters in Milan, centralizing a number of operations in a repurposed aeronautical factory. This Gucci Hub will serve as a location for fashion shows and acts as a physical representation of its changing aesthetic (Gucci takes nontraditional office approach for multipurpose Milan headquarters).

     

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