I discussed in a recent post the emotion I felt when I visualized the last campaign of the cosmetics brand SKII "Marriage Market Takeover".

What is the "Marriage Market"? This is a place where parents show off their daughters who are over 25 years old so that they can find the true love. These young women are seen as a shame by the society and even among their own families as a married woman is the main insurance for grand-fathers and grand-mothers that they will be taken care of when they get retired (as pensions are still almost inexistent in China). The pejorative term exists to design them, "Sheng Nu" which might be translated by "Takeover Women".

Well, story could have ended up like this. But sometimes there are some miracles on the social networks. I was contacted by the person in charge of the digital communication of the brand following my initial post and I was adressed a very kind mail telling me more about the brand's objectives and above all about the destiny of these women deliberately highlighted in this short documentary that sparked a huge amount of attention and conversation online.

For those of my followers that were also removed by this story and want to know more about the fate of these young women, discover three of their individual interviews below by clicking on their image and share it with relatives and friends. 

[HU TING - 35 years - Procurement Department of a Pharmacuetical Company]

[ZHU LI - 36 years - Editor for a Magazine]

[WANG XIAO QI - 27 years - Teach acting in a Kindergarten]

Again, thank you for this initiative and for the supplied information and material. A beautiful illustration that the CSR is not a hollow concept when it comes to defending the cause of women around the world.       

Eco-labels are becoming increasingly evident in the cosmetics industry. Ethical consumers are looking for organic, natural, cruelty-free and similar logos on their cosmetic products. However, a new label is emerging that is targeted at one of the fastest growing consumer groups in the world. The Halal cosmetics label is designed for Muslim consumers, comprising 20% of the global population.

The Halal label is already well-established in the food industry. It has been gaining popularity in the cosmetics industry since the Malaysian government introduced the Halal cosmetics standard (MS 2200: 2008) in June 2010.

The Halal label is given to cosmetic and personal care products that meet the strict rules of Sharia law. Like natural / organic standards,the Halal standard has a permitted and prohibited set of ingredients.
 
The Halal label appeals to Muslim consumers seeking integrity and authenticity in their cosmetic and personal care products. Concerns about animal-derived ingredients – such as gelatine and collagen - in cosmetic products are fuelling demand. Some consumers perceivesuch products as ethical as they typically avoid such ingredients.

International sales of Halal-certified cosmetics and personal care products are upwards of USD 5 billion. A growing number of cosmetic and ingredient firms are taking up Halal certification in Asia. The highest adoption rates are in Muslim countries where multinationals that includeColgate-Palmolive and Avon have launched certified products. As will be shown at the Asia-Pacific edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, international chemical firms like BASF and CP Kelco are also getting ingredients certified for such markets.

(...)

At present, 57 certification agencies are authorised to certify products according to the Halal cosmetics standard. Although the highest adoption rates are in countries like Malaysia and Indonesia, certification is also catching on in Europe and North America. In the latter regions, a growing number of Muslim consumers are interested in Halal-certified products. However, these products often fall short in terms of their ecological credentials as the formulations are similar to conventional cosmetics.

Organic Monitor sees high potential for such products in the Middle-East and Asia. In many of these countries, the market for natural & organic cosmetics is growing by over 20% a year. Rising consumer affluence, coupled with growing knowledge of cosmetic formulations, is making consumers pay a premium for cosmetics that meet their ethical / religious beliefs. However, they have to decide between Halal-certified conventional cosmetics and natural & organic products not meeting Sharia rules. With a lack of local brands of natural & organic cosmetics in these regions, there is a clear gap in the marketplace. A major challenge is formulating cosmetic products that meet two or more standards, as many European brands have discovered.

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Par Mansoura Fall, 06 Mars 2016

Dakar, 6 mars (APS) - La diversité d’articles, vêtements, cosmétiques, services et même stimulants sexuels, dits halal exposés au premier Forum africain du Business halal qui s’est tenu à Dakar témoigne de la richesse de ce marché basé sur les préceptes de la religion musulmane, a constaté l’APS.

A travers cette exposition les visiteurs ont pu découvrir que le potentiel du marché halal au Sénégal ne se limite pas seulement aux produits alimentaires. ’’Le halal est un concept religieux qui renvoie à ce qui est permis pour le musulman dans sa consommation et au sens le plus large dans son style de vie’’, selon Khadiyatoulah Fall, président du Salon international du business musulman (SIBM).

Cette rencontre qui a pris fin samedi avait pour thème : ‘’Vers une dynamisation des échanges commerciaux avec les pays du Golfe et d’Asie’’.

Pour le Pr Fall, ‘’il y a un potentiel incroyable pour le Sénégal (…) tout est réuni pour que le business halal puisse éclore’’. Robes, huiles essentielles, crèmes pour le corps et lait de cheveux, rien n’a été laissé au hasard dans cette exposition où les senteurs se mêlent aux couleurs savamment choisies dans les stands, notamment par ce couturier habillé en tailleur gris, rencontré par l’APS, vantant la qualité de ses vêtements halal.

’’J’ai voulu monter une ligne de vêtements destinés à un public en tenant compte des morphologies, des longueurs, des contingences religieuses, sociales, culturelles et professionnelles’’ a expliqué Pathé Dia soulignant que sa collection de vêtements est halal ‘’car elle obéit à des normes et standards’’. Pour ce couturier d’une quarantaine d’années, qui a aussi participé au 1er Salon Muslima de l’entrepreunariat féminin et du business halal organisé en janvier dernier à Dakar ‘’il n’est pas normal que l’on ne produise pas assez’’ pour le marché sénégalais. Il a déploré l’habitude de certains de toujours consommer les vêtements d’Orient alors qu’au niveau de la confection, ‘’tout peut se faire ici comme cela se fait à Madagascar, au Maroc ou en Turquie’’.

Plus loin, ce sont les produits cosmétiques de Coumba Lèye Diop qui attirent l’attention. Au milieu des savons, lait de corps, parfum, cette jeune femme au teint noir, voile sur la tête a pris le soin de bien indiquer sur des étiquettes la composition de ses produits, à base de cacao ou de karité.

Cette ‘’amoureuse’’ de produits naturels s’est aussi lancée dans la production de gammes intimes et stimulants sexuels halal destinées aussi bien aux femmes qu’aux hommes. ’’Le maquillage, le sexe, le lait de corps tout peut être halal à condition de l’utiliser comme il faut’’ a t-elle fait valoir avec assurance. ’’Mes produits sont halal car aucun ingrédient prohibé ne se trouve dans la composition’’ a-t-elle expliqué précisant l’importance de toujours vérifier la composition des produits que l’on consomme, car il peut arriver que l’on trouve ‘’du sang de requin dans les rouges à lèvres, ou bien du placenta dans les produits pour cheveux ou même de la gélatine de porc dans certains cosmétiques’’.

Amadou Cissé, responsable d’une entreprise de vente de produits naturels, a rappelé que le halal est aussi ‘’une certification qui pousse à être intègre dans la production’’ car selon lui ‘’la personne qui achète du halal veut être rassurée qu’il n’y a pas de produit illicite et que tout est conforme à sa consommation’’. Outre les vêtements et produits cosmétiques, cette exposition a prouvé que le halal est un business très vaste touchant de larges secteurs comme celui des banques, du tourisme et même des médias avec le lancement d’un magazine 100% halal, comme l’explique Betty Ndiaye.

Directrice de publication de ce bimestriel islamique féminin, cette diplômée en communication précise que tous les textes et articles écrits dans ce magazine sont authentifiés et attestés par des imams et savants musulmans. ’’C’est un magazine halal, car d’abord les bras des femmes sont floutés dans les photographies car nous n’avons pas le droit de les dévoiler selon l’Islam (…) et il n’y a rien qui puisse déroger aux préceptes de l’Islam’’, a soutenu la jeune femme voilée. On retrouve dans ce magazine des rubriques relatives à l’enseignement islamique, des conseils et bonnes pratiques, des biographies ou encore des recettes de cuisine halal.

Durant le Forum de Dakar, les experts ont relevé qu’en Afrique le potentiel du marché du halal est estimé à 150 milliards de dollars US. Le halal non alimentaire qui est estimé à 2300 milliards de dollars US porte sur des objets et services dont la production et le management se réclament également des recommandations de l’islam.

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From Premium beauty news,  extract of the Research on Trends lead by Les Persiennes Consulting, by Nilufar Khalessi

After 35 years of isolation, Iran is making a comeback on the international stage. This little-known country, which already represents 29% of the beauty market in the Middle East, is often described as the ‘new eldorado’ for cosmetics brands. Nilufar Khalessi, the French-Persian Founder of trends and consulting agency Les Persiennes Consulting, has taken a look at this country for a first qualitative, forward-looking deciphering. She gave Premium Beauty News an overview of the study The New Faces Of Iran - Fashion, Beauty & Paradoxes, to be presented next May.

With a population of 80 million inhabitants, including 55% under 30, Iran is a growth-driving, dynamic market. The fact that international sanctions have been lifted and that the economic situation should therefore improve have made it even more attractive. But this country is not without its own paradoxes.

For a thorough understanding of unknown Persia’s trends and lifestyles, the study The New Faces Of Iran - Fashion, Beauty & Paradoxes first describes the historical, geographical, cultural, and social pillars that define the Persian civilization. As a tremendous cultural and historical cradle, the country that became an Islamic Republic after the 1979 Revolution, mainly defines itself according to its ancient origins. “It is a Muslim country, but people consider themselves Persians and Iranians above all. It is essential to understand this subtlety,” Nilufar Khalessi explains.

Despite an embargo that lasted for decades, the major cities of Iran have been experiencing much progress, driven by the dynamics of a 2.0, highly-connected, Western-oriented young generation. However, the choices made by these young people show they will not let foreign countries dictate their consumption habits, as they actually prefer national goods. “Young Iranians deliberately have not completely assimilated the Western culture, although they do know and master its codes, since they have integrated them. And we would make a mistake if we tried to force them into a mould,” Nilufar Khalessi adds.

Iranian women, a status apart
As they are extremely educated – so is most of the population in large cities - Iranian women enjoy an important part in society. They are very present in institutions and play a crucial role, whether in the family or society. “The status of women is different from what can be observed in many Arab countries. Even the way they wear their veils is more lax, as it does not completely frame their faces and allows for much femininity to be seen,” Nilufar Khalessi explains.

The study used portraits of women from Isfahan, Tehran, and Shiraz to shape the contours of a generation that has been playing with the paradox between their public lives, as they comply with the established Islamic laws, and their private lives, subverting these laws for more freedom, whether in terms of beauty or fashion. Women are deeply committed to this young generation’s active and creative development, in all artistic fields.

The face at the core of femininity
“Iranian women hardly go out without makeup on, because the relationship with aesthetics is strongly developed,” Nilufar Khalessi affirms. Therefore, it is essential for them to beautify their eyes, eyebrows, lips, and hair. “In the city, the veil does not completely frame women’s faces. It is a real distinguishing feature: half the hair is uncovered, so women work a lot on it, often dying it blonde, and they are not keen on naturalness”. Facial care focuses on “zero defect” choices to fight against pollution-related problems, acne, or oily skins. In addition, the study highlights the very strong relationship with plastic surgery, in particular rhinoplasty.

“They choose L’Oréal, Dior, Lancôme, and many other well-established brands for their daily consumption, although they also buy other products by interesting local brands to be studied,” Nilufar Khalessi concludes.

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Émission Culture Pub -  BFM Business - La Saga Maggi - 05/12/2015

130 ans après l'invention du premier potage déshydraté par Julius Maggi, la marque patrimoniale n'en finit pas de se réinventer, s'inscrivant encore dans une incroyable modernité. Avec ses différents produits, elle s'est adaptée facilement aux évolutions de la cuisine et de la société. A travers ses spots, Maggi démontre sa capacité à s'adapter à n'importe quel type de cuisine et aussi en fonction des comportements alimentaires de chaque membre de la famille.

La Saga Maggi en 6 minutes vidéo :

• [1ere Partie] - La publicité et l'histoire de la marque : La saga pub
• [2ème partie] - L'analyse des raisons de son succès : L'analyse Pub

Pour retrouver l'intégralité de l'émission : Culture Pub

Avec: Claire Madoré, directrice marketing de Maggi. Olivier Daban, directeur commercial de Publics Conseil. Et Philippe Jourdan, président de Promise Consulting. - Culture Pub, du samedi 5 décembre 2015, présenté par Julien Mielcarek et Aurélie Blonde, sur BFM Business.