Endri Hasanaj | Mar 25

With the luxury ecommerce market set to reach $41.8 billion by 2019, navigating the online space is becoming increasingly crucial for high-end retailers. Whereas luxury brands have traditionally set themselves apart by creating an exclusive in-store experience, the significant shift to online over recent years has brought with it a new set of customer expectations. Luxury vendors now face the challenge of redefining their approach in order to stay relevant and ensure they continue to reach their target audience.

Traditionally, luxury retail has thrived on brand loyalty; customers in the market for a high-end product would typically have a brand in mind and go directly to that particular store to make their purchase. A sale would be dependent not on price factors or product specs, but rather on a first-class in-store customer experience. However, the internet has made it easier than ever to run comprehensive product, price and vendor comparisons, meaning that today’s shoppers are not only extremely well-informed, but accustomed to choice.

As highlighted by this Technavio report regarding the end of last year, this has led to a notable shift in luxury consumer patterns; high-end shoppers in the online sphere strongly favor a multi-brand environment over single-brand sites. Convenience is now a pivotal factor, and one that online marketplaces are evidently fulfilling more successfully than their uni-brand counterparts. Chrono24, for example, serves as a one-stop-shop for luxury watches, offering competitive pricing, convenient delivery and extensive brand diversity. A quick look at their range here – from Rolex to Cartier to Omega – shows that they are effectively eliminating the need to shop around for these brands individually.

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By Forrest Cardamenis, Luxury Daily, March 09, 2016

In a reversal of the more materialistic tendencies of their parents, almost 95 percent of Chinese Generation Z consumers say it is essential for brands to be sustainable and environmentally conscious, according to a report by RTG Consulting.

The continued growth of China over the next several years will ensure that its consumers remain prime targets for brands for the foreseeable future, as even a slowed China exceeds the growth rate of western nations. As a result, brands will need to make a connection to this group, the first born in a fully modern China, in the interest of long-term success.

“We have noticed that the meaning of success is being redefined where career and financial achievement are no longer the main drivers,” said Marc-Oliver Arnold, head of research and business consulting divisions at RTG Consulting Group. “Our research shows that more than 62 percent of Gen Z already believe that ‘success no longer means financial wealth’; instead, there is an emerging shift in mindset where it is more about how you live your life that matters.

“Not only does this mean they want to live a multi-faceted and enriching lifestyle, but that they also see the value in taking responsibility for caring for the world and their environment,” he said. “This awakening fuels this generation’s desire to be mindful of the present moment and rediscover the meaning of happiness in daily experiences.

Generation gap
As millennials have begun to accrue wealth, they are now the target market for many brands, which recognize that making the connection could sustain several decades of good business. However, the potential of the subsequent generation, particularly in booming market such as China, is enormous.

Additionally, the present reliance on Chinese tourists, a result of the country’s enormous population and booming economy as well as laws, taxes and limitations of distribution that raise the price of luxury goods in the country, means brands must be equipped to reach these consumers when their behaviors and desires change.

While Chinese millennials are heavy travelers and see luxury items as status symbols, tomorrow’s Chinese consumer will more closely resemble today’s western youth, a worldly, socially conscious consumer with alternate definitions of success.

Good news for brands is that many of the techniques currently being used to court millennials, namely emphasizing sustainable measures, will prove effective on China’s Gen Z. Brands that have not yet begun to prioritize sustainability and reduce their carbon footprint and have instead banked on a globalizing economy and/or Chinese tourists will only be more pressed to adapt as time goes on.

Although environmental concerns are the largest marker of China’s Gen Z consumers, it is far from the only one. Barely a quarter of these consumers object to same-sex marriages, an opinion that is at first glance divorced from consumer culture but is in fact important to note for marketing materials, which still overwhelmingly suggest heterosexual couplings.

While “word of mouth” was and remains the best form of advertising a brand can hope for, the phrase is quickly becoming an anachronism. Only 10 percent of consumers surveyed spend more time interacting offline than online with friends.

Marketers are already going after consumers on social media, but proficiency with the various platforms and a quick adoption rate will be crucial moving forward. With interaction moving online, brands will need to find ways to generate buzz in an organic an unobtrusive way even more so than they do today.

Chinese consumer using WeChat

“As digital natives, China’s Gen Z currently lives and breathes mobile, and so [a brand’s] approach must be inherently mobile, with the goal of becoming part of their digital lifestyle,” Mr. Arnold said. “This means offering engaging, meaningful and inspiring creative content as well as distinct experiences.

“In addition, we foresee brands to increasingly become more of a platform for people to build deep and personal human connections.”

Perhaps most alarmingly, around half of respondents say that a more interesting job would be preferable to a high-paying job and only 11 percent agree that wealth indicates success. The overall shift from materialism to mindfulness could be a major obstacle for many sectors, which will need to find a way to tell consumers that a handbag, jewelry or a car is more than a product or sign of wealth.

Brave new world
Although this data connects China’s Gen Z to global Gen Y consumers, China’s own millennials are generally far more consumerist than those in the United States and elsewhere.

Following Gen X’s economic breakthrough, Gen Y was presented with a world in which they could buy previously unthinkable luxuries. Those born into such a world, however, have turned their attention to non-material aspects of happiness.

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Manisha Rao, 05 MArch 2016, Yourstory.com

Luxury as a concept is defined within the scope of socio-psychology as a result of its connection to a culture, state of being, and lifestyle, whether personal or collective. In the context of brands, it relates to a signature style, identity, and strong emotional and symbolic associations that are interpreted in terms of products of high aesthetic quality, controlled distribution, and premium pricing. And this is what we refer to as exclusivity.

Even as luxury brands are taking to the digital space a little later than the other industries, they are bringing in their own energies to it. So, the product perception in case of premium goods is not incidental, but a cultivated outcome of a carefully crafted positioning strategy that largely hinges on ‘exclusivity’ in its appeal and aura.

Exclusivity in tech
We take up the case of very prominent Apple smartwatch and its marketing as not just a piece of tech innovation but also a luxe accessory. The launch campaign was a mix with exclusive editorial spreads in various editions of Vogue (which is fashion-specific and not a tech magazine) and also tactics like limited retail distribution, tie-ups with upscale retailers (Colette in Paris and Opening Ceremony in London), individual sales appointments in stores, and celebrity endorsements. The result of all these strategies was the phenomenal buzz around the smartwatch that came to figure on the coveted lists of many jetsetters.

Exclusivity in E-commerce
Now there are luxury brands innovating to reinforce their unique brand USPs even as they creatively attempt to carve a distinct online echo for them to cut through the competition. By coming up with visually tempting and experiential digital platforms via short films, apps, microsites, and online events, luxury brands are revamping their digital personas and also influencing the Millennial consumer to look out for that special, singular brand experience like Flipkart’s exclusive Xiaomi phone launch in India.

Exclusivity in luxury clothing
Brands like Jimmy Choo, Tod’s, Louboutin, Gucci, Zegna and Burberry offer product customisation in terms of size, fit, personalisation such as monogramming and matching. These brands make up that section of luxury brands that have their fingers on the consumer’s pulse and study the fast-evolving consumer profile in terms of desires, buying behaviours. Such reflections then lead to creation of unique apps that enhance consumer’s interaction with the brand and also impart an exclusive experience, such as Hermès Tie Break and Burberry’s Art of the Trench15. Some luxury brands are also offering certain services availed only through their online portals and some are launching exclusive collections online first, for example, Ralph Lauren has launched its luxury pet essentials with Darveys.com, luxury brand Swiss military with Firefox bikes and designers like Manish Arora, Sabyasachi are tying up exclusively with portals like Jabong, Myntra, and Amazon.

Exclusivity in online departmental stores
In addition to the brand owned online offshoots, there are online departmental stores that are the other major outposts for the luxury shoppers. NET-A-PORTER is one of the most preferred leading online shopping sites in the UK and USA. Along with its high service ethic and unique content and exhaustive range of luxury brands, the site also marks out a preferred treatment strategy for its most valuable customers, the EIPS (extremely important people). Hence, they enjoy exclusive services like having their orders picked, packed, and dispatched, while also availing services like personalised look-books, personal shoppers, etc.

Consumer perspective
Customers need to feel special as they indulge their time and energy into a brand. According to a McKinsey report from February 2015, 60 per cent of US luxury consumers say they would be more likely to buy at an online shop if it offered luxury brands that no one else sold online, a sentiment echoed by their German counterparts. Forty-one per cent say they would be more likely to buy online if there were better prices offered.

Branching out further in the luxury domain are private shopping clubs that are members-only, where members are given special offers on big brands. Luxury flash-sale site Gilt Groupe has been offering exclusive sales to its Facebook fans – more reason for them to go online and buy and feel special.

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CNBC, 17/02/2016.

It isn't every day you see a sign boasting 40 percent off in the window of a luxury shop. But as real estate executive Andy Graiser walked past one of Prada's New York City boutiques a week before Christmas, that's exactly what he encountered.

Though the design house is working through some internal issues (namely, products that have fallen flat with their target demographic), Graiser, founder of A&G Realty, said such deep discounting at a luxury shop is indicative of broader woes across the luxury space — troubles that could result in the segment being next in line to trim its store fleet.

The problems that luxury firms are battling are twofold. For one, they're facing macroeconomic pressures including a sinking stock market, stalled global growth and a stronger dollar, all of which discourage the high-end consumer from spending. For another, they're trying to sell their wares to a group of shoppers who have become less focused on material goods, and are instead more interested in dining out or travel — a trend that could have long-term implications for the industry.

Due to these factors and an overall glut of retail space in the U.S., Graiser predicts luxury retailers will be next in line to close some stores, as they try to compete in a country that has more than two times the retail space per capita than the United Kingdom, France, Brazil and Germany combined.

"There are real issues with some of these luxury players," Graiser said. "There's going to be a lot more closures that are going to be occurring."

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[Extracts - More to follow]

Chanel most desirable brand among Chinese affluents: report
调查显示香奈儿是中国有钱人最青睐的品牌

Exclusivity and desirability go hand in hand for China’s wealthy, with the same brands ranked in the top five for both characteristics in a new study by Promise Consulting and BNP Exane. Hermès takes home top prize for exclusivity, which measures the consistent quality of goods, the brand’s prestige, the valuation of the brand’s customers and its ability to justify a high price point. Chinese consumers are generally becoming more sophisticated luxury consumers, making for tougher competition between labels for their attention and affection.

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Chanel most desirable Brand among Chinese Affluents

Exclusivity and desirability go hand in hand for China’s wealthy, with the same brands ranked in the top five for both characteristics in a new study by Promise Consulting and BNP Exane.

Hermès takes home top prize for exclusivity, which measures the consistent quality of goods, the brand’s prestige, the valuation of the brand’s customers and its ability to justify a high price point. Chinese consumers are generally becoming more sophisticated luxury consumers, making for tougher competition between labels for their attention and affection.

Promise Consulting and BNP Exane’s “Exclusivity and Desirability Barometer” surveyed 600 women among the top 3 percent of households in China in September 2015, asking them about the 30 brands across ready-to-wear, footwear, leather goods and accessories which have made the most investments in communication in the market. This is a follow-up to a survey of French women conducted in May 2015.

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Unicità, qualità e design spingono i brand in Cina. Hermès, Chanel e Prada tra i top

Il tempo per sé, il rispetto per l'ambiente, l'unicità di un oggetto: la definizione di “lusso” può essere la più personale, ma difficilmente non includerà due aspetti, l'esclusività e la desiderabilità. Due concetti che i brand dell'alta gamma, come alchimisti, cercano di combinare in un equilibrio perfetto, armonizzando due necessità, quella di produrre sogni e ricavi. “Measuring Brand Exclusivity and Desirability - China ” è proprio il nome di un report pubblicato da Promise Consulting e da Bnp Exane, cha indaga quali sono i brand del lusso più esclusivi e desiderabili in Cina, mercato chiave dell'alta gamma: il campione preso in esame è stato di 607 donne fra i 18 e i 54 anni, residenti della Mainland China (che comprende Great China e Hong Kong), con un reddito medio mensile superiore a 20.000 yuan, (circa 2.700 euro), cifra elevatissima se si considera che il reddito medio dei cittadini cinesi nel 2015, secondo il China Statistics Bureau, è stato di 21.996 yuan all'anno.

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Barometro Promise - BNP Exane "Esclusività e desiderabilità" 2015: le più ricche donne cinesi stilano una classifica dei brand del lusso

Secondo alcuni, quando la Cina starnutisce, il resto del mondo si ammala, eppure i più grandi brand del lusso si stanno affermando in Cina, trasformandosi nei più esclusivi oggetti del desiderio delle ricche donne cinesi. Tuttavia la nostra classifica rivela anche una concorrenza ancor più forte, accentuata dalla crescente maturità dei clienti facoltosi. Questo barometro di Promise Consulting / BNP Exane stila una classifica dei 15 brand più esclusivi e desiderabili in Cina legati all'universo della moda femminile. Il Barometro è condotto tra le donne cinesi più ricche, e analizza i 30 brand del lusso di prêt-à-porter/borse/scarpe/accessori che hanno investito maggiormente nella comunicazione (fonte: Industry Interviews, Exane Paribas).

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Louis Vuitton’s positive Chinese placement a result of slow, steady growth

In the short term, French apparel and accessories brand Louis Vuitton is on pace to have the best momentum among luxury houses during the Year of the Monkey, per Exane BNP Paribas.

Exane BNP Paribas’ “Chinese Luxury: The Year of Monkey Business” report looks at the current economic climate of China and how the slowdown is impacting luxury brands with a presence in the Mainland and Hong Kong markets. While many brands are concerned regarding the slowdown in Chinese spending, the financial firm suggests that growth for 2016 will match the year-ago.

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THESE LUXURY BRANDS ARE BEST AT BALANCING EXCLUSIVITY AND DEMAND IN CHINA

How do Chinese women really feel about that next big luxury collection out on the market? Exane, a France-based investment company, has attempted to answer this question with a quantitative analysis of the Chinese shopper’s true desires when it comes to purchasing luxury brands.

The primary findings aren’t news per se, at least according to most market reports. They reveal that luxury stalwarts like Chanel, Dior, and Hermès are what Chinese shoppers think about most when they go to sleep at night—it’s not surprising, then, that Apple looked to Hermès’ timeless leather designs for its latest wearable tech collaboration that attracted droves of China’s fashion-savvy.

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Classement des marques de luxe préférées des Chinoises fortunées : BNP Exane et Promise Consulting dévoilent le classement des marques de luxe par les Chinoises fortunées. Chanel et Hermès arrivent en tête du classement.

En collaboration avec BNP Exane, Promise Consulting, société de conseil et d'études en marketing, publie les résultats de la 2ème vague du Baromètre Promise Consulting - BNP Exane " Exclusivité & Désirabilité 2015 ". Ce baromètre met en avant les 15 premières marques jugées les plus exclusives et les plus désirables en Chine dans l’univers de la Mode féminine. Ce Baromètre est établi auprès des femmes chinoises les plus fortunées et porte sur les 30 marques de prêt-à-porter, sacs, chaussures et accessoires dans l’univers du luxe qui ont le plus fortement investi en communication (Source : Industry Interviews, Exane Paribas). Promise Consulting et BNP Exane avaient conduit la même étude auprès des femmes Françaises au cours du mois de Mai 2015.

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Cina, le donne ricche adorano il lusso francese

Le maison francesi dominano per esclusività e i marchi più esclusivi sono anche i più ambiti. È questo l’identikit del desiderio per le donne cinesi. Un’indagine di Promise Consulting e BNP Exane stila una classifica dei 15 brand più esclusivi e desiderabili in Cina legati all’universo della moda femminile. Una classifica che rivela anche una concorrenza sempre più forte, accentuata dalla crescente maturità delle clienti facoltose, il 3% della popolazione che appartiene alla fascia più ricca.

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Chanel most desirable brand among Chinese affluents: report - Luxury Daily - Research

Chanel’s interlocking C’s Exclusivity and desirability go hand in hand for China’s wealthy, with the same brands ranked in the top five for both characteristics in a new study by Promise Consulting and BNP Exane. Hermès takes home top prize for exclusivity, which measures the consistent quality of goods, the brand’s prestige, the valuation of the brand’s customers and its ability to justify a high price point. Chinese consumers are generally becoming more sophisticated luxury consumers, making for tougher competition between labels for their attention and affection. Promise Consulting and BNP Exane’s “Exclusivity and Desirability Barometer” surveyed (...)

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Barometer Promise - BNP Exane "Exclusivity & Desirability" 2015: The Wealthiest Chinese Women Rank Luxury Brands

Some say that when China sneezes the rest of the world catches cold, butthe biggest luxury brands are catching on in China, becoming the most exclusive and desirable ones in fashion according to the wealthiest Chinese women. Still, our ranking also reveals a stronger competition that is accentuated by the wealthy customers' increasingly stronger maturity. This barometer Promise Consulting / BNP Exane classifies the 15 most exclusive and desirable brands in China in the universe of feminine Fashion (...)

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Barometer Promise - BNP Exane "Exclusivity & Desirability" 2015: The Wealthiest Chinese Women Rank Luxury Brands

"This barometer in association with BNP Exane reflects our determination to move closer to the marketing and cross-section financial analysis. Our Monitoring Brand Assets® approach itself features very complementary analyzes with those conducted by BNP Exane's experts. Hence, the obtained results from our joined barometer are based on two different angles of expertise, marketing and financial, which brings a unique added value to the managers and decision-makers inthe Luxury sector (...)" [Philippe Jourdan, CEO]

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Barometro Promise - BNP Exane "Esclusività e desiderabilità" 2015: le più ricche donne cinesi stilano una classifica dei brand del lusso

"Questo barometro in collaborazione con BNP Exane riflette la nostra determinazione ad avvicinarci all'analisi di marketing e all'analisi finanziaria cross-section. Il nostro approccio Monitoring Brand Assets® tiene conto sia delle analisi complementari che di quelle condotte dagli esperti di BNP Exane. Ecco perché i risultati così ottenuti si fondano su due diverse prospettive, sia di marketing che finanziarie, offrendo così uno straordinario valore aggiunto ai manager e ai decision-maker nel settore del lusso. (...) [Philippe Jourdan, CEO]

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Promise Consulting se penche sur la désirabilité des marques de luxe en Chine

Le cabinet de conseil et d'études en marketing Promise Consulting collabore à nouveau avec BNP Exane afin de faire ressortir le classement des marques de luxe jugées les plus « exclusives » par les clientes sur le territoire chinois. Ce baromètre a été établi auprès de 600 femmes chinoises (18-54 ans) appartenant aux 3% de foyers aux revenus les plus élevés, et porte sur les 30 marques de luxe, prêt-à-porter, accessoires et maroquinerie confondus, qui ont réalisé les plus gros investissements en matière de communication.

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Enquête : L’Exclusivité et la Désirabilité des marques de luxe en 2015

Les résultats d’une grande enquête sur le luxe viennent d’être révélés par le cabinet Promise Consulting. Ce baromètre réalisé en partenariat avec BNP Exane a rapproché la vision marketing et la vision financière et porte sur 15 marques de luxe dans l’univers de la mode.

Chanel remporte tous les suffrages dans les deux études
« Le raffinement de ses collections de Haute Couture, le succès de ses collections Croisière et Prêt-à-porter, l’hommage rendu aux Métiers d’Art dans une ville différente chaque année, l’investissement dans le domaine de la Haute Joaillerie depuis 1987 participent à l’ascension de la marque au tout premier plan. Ce résultat n’est donc pas surprenant et récompense un investissement conséquent, cohérent, maintenu dans la durée et très qualitatif » explique Philippe Jourdan, CEO de Promise Consulting.

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BAROMETER PROMISE - BNP EXANE "EXCLUSIVITY & DESIRABILITY" 2015: THE WEALTHIEST CHINESE WOMEN RANK LUXURY BRANDS 

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Some say that when China sneezes the rest of the world catches cold, but the biggest luxury brands are catching on in China, becoming the most exclusive and desirable ones in fashion according to the wealthiest Chinese women. Still, our ranking also reveals a stronger competition that is accentuated by the wealthy customers’ increasingly stronger maturity. This barometer Promise Consulting / BNP Exane classifies the 15 most exclusive and desirable brands in China in the universe of feminine Fashion.

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Chinese consumers love their Chanel and Hermès – 7/2/16

Exclusivity and desirability go hand in hand for China’s wealthy, with the same brands ranked in the top five for both characteristics in a new study by Promise Consulting and BNP Exane. Luxury Daily reports that French luxury house Hermès takes home top prize for exclusivity, which measures the consistent quality of goods, the brand’s prestige, the valuation of the brand’s customers and its ability to justify a high price point.

[READ MORE]

Barometer Promise - BNP Exane "Exclusivity & Desirability" 2015: The Wealthiest Chinese Women Rank Luxury Brands

Some say that when China sneezes the rest of the world catches cold, but the biggest luxury brands are catching on in China, becoming the most exclusive and desirable ones in fashion according to the wealthiest Chinese women. Still, our ranking also reveals a stronger competition that is accentuated by the wealthy customers' increasingly stronger maturity. This barometer Promise Consulting / BNP Exane classifies the 15 most exclusive and desirable brands in China in the universe of feminine Fashion. (...)

[READ MORE]