Si une entreprise souhaite communiquer en Chine pour promouvoir un produit, elle devra obligatoirement passer par le digital, en effet dans un pays où l'on dénombre pas moins de 750 millions d'internautes, les canaux de communication traditionnels sont largement délaissés. Mais dans cette nouvelle ère du digital s'impose forcément des défis à relever. 

Ainsi, les influenceurs et Key Opinion Leader (KOL) sont devenus des acteurs indispensables par lesquels les marques doivent passer pour réussir une campagne en Chine. Ce type de marketing, coûteux pour les entreprises, est biaisé du fait de l'apparition de faux comptes. Les influenceurs payent un service pour bénéficier de plus de like sur leur post ou d'un plus grand nombre d'abonnés, dans le but d'augmenter leur cachet. Si ce genre de pratiques parviennent à être à peu près encadrées en Occident, ce n'est absolument pas le cas en Chine. 

Ainsi les marques nationales et internationales en Chine veillent à collaborer avec des influenceurs ne travaillant pas avec des "fermes à cliques", où des travailleurs sont rémunérés au nombre de clics générés. Pour lutter contre cela les marques choisissent de plus en plus de faire appel à des influenceurs digitaux, nous pouvons notamment citer Shudu Gram qui est le premier mannequin numérique au monde. Ces influenceurs garantissent aux marques une bonne image. 

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Article de Adina-Laura Achim

Les récentes manifestations ayant lieu à Hong Kong pour son indépendance ont poussé le gouvernement Chinois a rappelé les marques de luxe à l'ordre.

Les géants du luxe comme Givenchy, Versace et Coach sont accusés de véhiculer des messages à l’encontre de la souveraineté chinoise sur Taïwan et Hong Kong. Les marques proposent des tee-shirts comprenant les inscriptions suivantes : Paris - FRANCE ; Shanghai - CHINA ; Hong Kong - HONG KONG. Certains influenceurs chinois ont donc pris leur distance des marques voire même de leurs sponsors : La mannequin Liu Wen a déclaré que « la souveraineté nationale et l’intégrité territoriale de la Chine sont en tout temps sacrées et inviolables ! »

Autre exemple, en 2018, GAP avait fabriqué des tee-shirts représentant la carte de la Chine et sur laquelle Taïwan n'apparaissait pas. Ce genre de communication n'est pas judicieuse dans un contexte où la tension monte régulièrement entre la jeunesse chinoise et le gouvernement. 

Ainsi si le poids des marques de luxe en Chine est loin d'être négligeable, l'attachement à la souveraineté de sa population est bien plus forte. 

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Article de Hugo Lehner

Début août, Lyst a annoncé son classement des marques les plus populaires au second semestre de l'année. 

Gucci est passé devant Off-White qui était en tête au premier semestre. Cette avance de Gucci sur son concurrent s'explique notamment par sa collection Cruise qui permet aux clients d'essayer leur vêtement en ligne, cette stratégie digitale semble avoir conquis le public. 

Balenciaga est la marque à suivre puisque c'est elle qui dispose de la croissance la plus rapide ce semestre. En parallèle Prada connaît également une croissance positive puisque son chiffre d'affaires a augmenté pour la première fois en quatre ans. 

Pour Moschino c'est une remontée, l'enseigne se classe désormais 18e, elle a donc gagné 5 places par rapport au semestre précédent. Cela se justifie entre autres par les collaborations effectuées par la marque avec The Sims et Playboy et certains modèles de la collection printemps-Ete 2020 sont apparues dans le clip You Need to Calm Down de Katy Peery et Taylor Swift. 

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FROM PROMISE CONSULTING IN PARTNERSHIP WITH EXANE BNP PARIBAS 

The wealthiest #English women #desire the #European #brands but purchase most often the #American ones

THE « DESIRABILITY & EXCLUSIVITY » BAROMETER OF PROMISE CONSULTING ON LUXURY BRANDS  PUBLISHES ITS RESULTS FOR THE UNITED KINGDOM. THIS MEASURE IS INCLUDED IN THE « BRAND HEALTH » INDEX OF THE FINANCIAL ANALYSIS COMPANY EXANE BNP PARIBAS.

The results of the 4th edition of the « «Desirability &Exclusivity » barometer for the United Kingdom show that European and especially French high-end brands in fashion are considered more exclusive than the US ones and equally desirable. But the American brands are more known and more often purchased. Consequently, 4 US brands rank in the top 4 places while only Chanel integrates the top 5. Burberry on the other hand falls behind in its domestic market.

As well-known as their European counterparts, American brands certainly benefit from a less high-end (and therefore more premium and accessible) positioning to take the leadership on sales. But they also seduce by a more trendy and sporty style, more in line with the dominant values of the “bourgeois” aristocracy of the US East coast. An evidence of the better fit of the transatlantic fashion brands with the dominant lifestyle values in the United Kingdom. Certainly but not only!

However, European brands, essentially French and Italian ones, remain very desirable and even more exclusive (perhaps too much?). Chanel is by far the most desired brand in the UK while high-end brands occupy the top of the ranking with three brands neck and neck (Ralph Lauren, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior). Finally, the high-end brands in fashion continue to widen the gap in exclusivity (Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Prada), while Dior and more surprisingly Burberry lie behind.

There is indeed, as Brexit is going on, an irreducible specificity of the English market of the luxury fashion that we invite you to discover!

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ABOUT PROMISE CONSULTING

Promise Consulting is a market research and consulting firm issued from the merge of the French company Panel On The Web and the American company Promise Consulting. 

Promise Consulting delivers market research and consulting services of upmost added value. The company created an innovative methodology and modeling for measuring the performance and the ROI of marketing strategies and brand-focused investments (Monitoring Brand Assets©.  This methodology has been deployed in nearly 50 countries to date, fully investigates 250 brands in the most diverse sectors and totalizes more than 1,500,000 administered questionnaires worldwide. 

Promise consulting has an established reputation for its innovative methods and models and has been awarded with Prizes 7 times in 10 years by the profession at the national and international levels. The company works with the main brands in luxury, cosmetics and retailing helping them to grow in their national market or at the international level. It is also active in many other business sectors, whenever the brand managers want to have an informed growth strategy, to better understand their market, or to better reach out and retain their customers.  

Promise’s CEO, Philippe Jourdan, is the chief-editor of the Adetem’s review, the French Marketing Review (RFM) since 2011. He publishes in academic international magazines on issues related to brand equity in the universes of luxury, beauty and selective retailing. He also publishes in the economic and news press (Le Monde, Les Echos, Le Figaro, l’Opinion, La Revue des Marques, etc.). Philippe is also an associate professor, researcher at the IRG (CNRS) and was awarded for the best Research Paper, AFM in 2000. He has also a certification in Social Media. http://www.promiseconsultinginc.com/  

ABOUT EXANE BNP PARIBAS

Founded in 1990, Exane BNP Paribas is an investment company specializing in three businesses:

• Cash equities: under the brand name Exane BNP Paribas, Exane provides institutional investors with a range of services, such as research, sale and execution on European equities.
• Derivatives: Exane Derivatives has built a robust structured products franchise, based on its longstanding leadership in European convertible bonds and options.
• Asset management: the asset management arm of the Exane Group is embodied by its 2 asset management companies, Exane asset management and Ellipsis AM, based respectively on the equity and fixed-income universes.

Exane BNP Paribas works primarily with institutional clients around the world (pension funds, fund managers for banks or insurers, etc.) and markets its derivatives to a broad spectrum of clients, including private fund managers and investment counselors. Exane employs more than 800 people worldwide, in offices in Paris, London, Frankfurt, Geneva, Madrid, Milan, New York, Stockholm and Singapore. Exane BNP Paribas’ research teams cover more than 600 major companies around the world and are regularly awarded with prizes for the high quality of their sector analyses. In the luxury sector, Luca Solca has been elected Best Financial Analyst by its pairs and clients during the years 2011, 2014 and 2015.

Download the press release : PRESS RELEASE BAROMETER UK.pdf

First-tier cities, namely Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen (“The Big Four”), are defined by their economic development, number of inhabitants, industries and well-known brands settled in and per capita Gross Domestic Product, among other factors.

This classification is quite handy to luxury brands, as they will settle in first-tier cities to win over potential luxury clients. A report by Accenture (2013) has shown that consumers from these cities tend to buy expensive brands more than those from second and third-tier cities, whom are satisfied with products worth 1000 yuan or less. Finally, they are more demanding regarding the quality of the product, its authenticity and uniqueness.

However, this trend is beginning to turn around, as bigger brands are getting interested in second and third-tier cities. Their consumers are looking for conspicuous logos and products worn by celebrities whereas they are less knowledgeable on that subject than consumers from first-tier cities, which may give an opportunity to luxury brands on creating a new fashion image.

Source : Accenture - JingDaily

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Shopping is one of the main reason of travelling for wealthy Chinese consumers. Luxury goods bought overseas are either purchased for personal use, either for gifting, even though the latter is not as popular as it was two years ago, declining for 30% in two years. As a matter of fact, according to a survey by Hurun (2015), 82% of “super travelers” are shopping on their behalf.

Xi Jinping’s anti-corruption policies had a negative impact on the luxury goods market in China, which is why gifting products from brands of high value that were used as bribes aren’t as common as they were before. Since it is strictly forbidden and is applied inside China, wealthy Chinese consumers are now shopping abroad especially for personal use.

Source: Hurun Report - Financial Times

You would like to attend to the Conference in Paris, 04/14, 8:30-10:30 AM: [CLICK HERE]

You would like to know more about Promise Consulting? Blog Promise Consulting