La tendance shopping: Paris détrône Hong Kong à la première destination où les Chinois achètent des produits de luxe - 12/04

Ce mardi 12 avril 2016, Karine Vergniol vous présente la nouvelle tendance shopping.

Cette semaine, focus sur les tendances de consommation de produits de luxe des Chinois.

Avec: Olivier Abtan, directeur associé et responsable mondial de l'expertise Luxe au BCG. Philippe Jourdan, associé de Promise Consulting, expert en études marketing et conseiller des grandes marques de luxe. Et Jing Yang, fondateur de Bonjour Brand. - Goûts de Luxe Paris, présenté par Karine Vergniol, sur BFM Business.

April 7, 2016 from Jing Daily

A new ad campaign by luxury cosmetics brand SK-II addresses a social issue in China that doesn’t usually receive much attention in the country’s commercial scene: the plight of sheng nu, or “leftover women.”

If one wasn’t aware of how twenty-something single women are traditionally viewed by their parents’ generation in China, the start of the four-minute-long video ad strikingly makes it clear. It begins by juxtaposing a montage of photographs of young girls with audio phrases from their parents, such as, “I won’t die in peace unless you are married,” “Don’t be so free willed,” and “You’re too picky.”

Chinese women are put under an incredible amount of social pressure to get married, so much so that businesses pop up around Chinese New Year that give single women (and men) the opportunity to rent a boyfriend or girlfriend to fool and appease their family over the holidays. The term sheng nu is a derogatory one used for those who haven’t found a husband by their mid to late twenties.

For the women featured in the film, this term brings on feelings of guilt. “Not getting married is a sign of disrespect,” says one woman before tearfully apologizing to the camera for disappointing her family.

Then, in an emotional turn of events, the women head to the Marriage Market in Shanghai, where parents normally go to browse the “resumes” of potential suitors for their daughters. This time, however, the women would be the ones delivering a message to their parents.

The parents find beautiful photos of the women at the market, each paired with statements of confidence like, “I don’t want to get married just for the sake of marriage. I won’t live happily that way.”

This touching film, produced by Swedish ad agency Forsman & Bodenfors, is the latest installment of SK-II’s global #changedestiny campaign, which encourages women to “change their DNA” to take control of their future. SK-II’s website has additional short films that show women having courage to change their DNA, including one starring Chinese actress Tang Wei and another featuring Chief Strategy Officer for Ebay Greater China Vvivi Hu.

In the case of the sheng nu campaign, the confident subjects behind #changedestiny speaks volumes to affluent Chinese women. A 2014 report by Grant Thornton International showed that about 63 percent of Chinese businesses have female CFOs, and women are going to great lengths to have their own eggs frozen so that they can put things like having children—and marriage—second to their successful careers.

So far, the “Marriage Market Takeover” Youtube video has more than 250,000 hits after two days of being released, and its WeChat post is quickly catching up with more than 100,000 pageviews and a growing number of comments of encouragement from supportive fans.

Credits:

Brand Director: Kylene Campos
Art Direction: Sophia Lindholm and Karina Ullensvang
Director: Floyd Russ
Digital Producer: Peter Gaudiano
Film Editor: Cut + Run
Production: Tool of North America
Producer: Alexander Blidner

[READ THE FULL ARTICLE IN JING DAILY]

Source : Jing Daily, March, 31- The Luxury Business in China

Luxury brands including Fendi, Dior, and Marc Jacobs may not have official shops on Tmall, but China’s fashionistas can now easily find them on the platform’s newly launched “Luxury Channel” created in partnership with flash sales site Mei.com.

Yesterday, the two companies held a star-studded, high-tech runway extravaganza in Shanghai to promote the new channel. Celebrities on hand for the festivities included reality star and socialite Olivia Palermo and singer Li Yuchun (Chris Lee), and the event was live-streamed on Tmall and Youku. Users watching online had the opportunity to purchase any of the 42 looks from the new platform in real time. Selected from 80 designers featured on Mei.com, the looks included brands such as Karl Lagerfeld and Moschino, with one styled by Olivia Palermo featuring pieces by Saint Laurent and Chloe. In order to capture viewers’ attention, the show also hosted a singing performance by pop star Tia Ray, while actor Yilun Sheng walked the runway in one of the outfits.

The new launch comes after Alibaba’s July 2015 investment of more than $100 million, and will feature flash sales managed by Mei.com directly on Tmall with brands that have opted to be on the platform. According to Mei.com CEO Thibault Villet, the presence on Tmall will help the flash sales company expand its customer base to consumers from lower-tier cities as well as “further expand access to technology” through Alibaba. Mei.com previously opened its own Tmall shop in December 2015.

“Currently most of our customers are Tier 1 and Tier 2 customers,” says Villet, “and here with this channel, we will be able to enlarge our reach to Tier 2 and Tier 3 customers.” He also says the channel will be targeted at younger consumers with an emphasis on more contemporary brands in Mei.com’s portfolio, with the same price points that are featured on Mei.com.

Meanwhile, the new platform dramatically expands the presence of major international luxury brands on Tmall as the site works to attract premium and international labels and fight an image of counterfeits being rampant on the site. “We’re very strongly positioned to be the gateway between luxury fashion designers and Tmall,” says Villet. The Tmall and Mei.com joint press conference for the launch emphasized the presence of international brands such as Burberry on Tmall, discussing how Burberry has pursued a “seamless experience online and offline” by matching its in-store and online prices.

Edoardo Tocco, the regional director for China at TOD’S Group, which owns Roger Vivier, TOD’S, and Hogan, was on hand to discuss why he believes the new platform will benefit his company’s brands. “Consumers in China are driven by pragmatism, convenience, and value for money,” he says. “These three key drivers are those that we should always put in the back of our minds.”

According to him, “In China, e-commerce is getting to be one of the most important channels.” This is a good thing for brands, in his opinion, because, “in the digital world, you can actually be very smart about managing in-season and off-season products with different strategies,” he states, noting that “e-commerce should be completely integrated upstream and downstream with your other channels,” in terms of product launch, availability, and logistics.

In addition to flash sales, the new platform will also soon include a cross-border component that leverages Tmall Global, says Villet. This will feature items at full international prices shipped from abroad, and is being created in response to a 10,000-customer survey by Mei.com that showed high demand for the service. Mei.com will launch a cross-border sales platform on its own site, featuring smaller niche brands from places including the United States and the UK. “We’re leveraging Tmall Global as a first point of entrance and later this summer we will have a second point of entry directly on Mei.com,” he says. He notes the importance of adding cross-border sales as the demand for international goods is “a growing trend” that is being “encouraged by the government” through new special e-commerce import zones. 

Mobile technology also remains key to sales on the platform. “The business we do is now more and more apps-driven,” says Villet, who notes that 80 percent of Mei.com’s sales are now through mobile apps as of last month. Mei.com has recently been embracing mobile-focused content-driven marketing with a newly launched content channel that publishes “Mei Magazine” featuring editorial content focusing on trends and information.

Mei.com expects these efforts to significantly expand its user base. The site currently has around 7 million members, and projects that this will grow to 10 million by the end of 2016.

[VIEW THE ARTICLE ONLINE]

FROM L2 / THE DAILY THURSDAY / MARCH,31, 2016

Innisfree is one of the most popular Korean beauty brands in China, as evidenced by its high search volume on Baidu, Taobao, and Youku. (Innisfree was the top Beauty brand according to both the Taobao and Baidu Indexes.) L2 research finds the success of Innisfree to be a result of robust digital properties on the brand site, mobile, in-store and on social media.

Innisfree maintains a sophisticated brand site designed for consumers to spend time on; a gamified cross-channel loyalty program, user-generated content syndicated from multiple social platforms, and video libraries are among the features offered. Furthermore, the brand site ensures product research and purchases are seamless with grid pages that include quick-view and product pages featuring reviews and recently-viewed products. The brand’s site is also mobile optimized with swipeable carousels and mobile-specific offers.

Social media also plays an important role in Innisfree’s success. Consumers can create a customer profile by logging in with their Weibo, QQ, or Alipay accounts. These accounts allow Innisfree to create an omnichannel loyalty program that tracks online and offline purchases. Users can also gain points by engaging on social media or checking into a brand site.

Innisfree’s Spring 2015 social campaign “Summer Love”, featuring Korean influencers Lee Minho and Yoona, became one of the most successful campaigns among Korea Beauty peers. The campaign promoted the Innisfree Summer Foundation Cushion with five videos on Youku with the storyline of a young couple. The two most viewed videos from the campaigned averaged 181,000 views, more than four times the brand’s average video view count. The Youku campaign was supported by desktop and mobile advertising, as well as WeChat and Sina Weibo promotions. The most successful WeChat post was viewed 10,600 times while the campaign’s Sina Weibo post remains the brand’s most engaging post with 2,000 interactions. But much of the success is evident in the sheer number of users who spread the word; the campaign hashtag #innisfree received 17.7 million impressions and 36,000 mentions on Weibo. Yet, Innisfree expanded the campaign beyond just promotions, and connected the buzz to shopping. The popular couple remains featured on the Innisfree Tmall site to promote products and maintain brand buzz.

[READ THE ARTICLE ONLINE]

ACTUS REUTERS

Après avoir longtemps résisté, le secteur du luxe essaye de rattraper son retard dans le commerce en ligne, canal devenu crucial pour capter davantage de croissance et appréhender une clientèle de plus en plus jeune, volatile et connectée.

Longtemps rétif, le secteur du luxe tente de rattraper son retard dans le commerce en ligne, canal devenu crucial pour capter davantage de croissance et appréhender une clientèle de plus en plus jeune, volatile et connectée. Pris de vitesse par la rapidité avec laquelle évoluent les nouveaux consommateurs du luxe, notamment asiatiques, les groupes comme LVMH, propriétaire de Louis Vuitton ou Céline, Dior, Kering (Gucci) ou Hermès n'ont d'autre choix que de s'engager de façon plus volontariste dans le digital, au prix d'importants changements dans leur culture d'entreprise.

"Nous sommes à un tournant, avec une vraie prise de conscience de la nécessité du digital", estime Mélanie Flouquet, analyste de JP Morgan, pour qui le e-commerce constitue un "gros enjeu à moyen terme" pour le secteur. Pendant que la croissance du marché mondial du luxe a ralenti aux environs de 5% en 2014, celle des ventes en ligne a atteint 30%, après une hausse annuelle moyenne de 28% entre 2011 et 2013, selon le cabinet Bain & Co.

NÉCESSITÉ DE DÉVELOPPER LE MULTICANAL

Le "multicanal", qui efface les frontières entre e-commerce et magasins en dur, s'avère d'autant plus nécessaire qu'après une phase d'expansion massive, nombre de marques ont stabilisé leur réseau et ne peuvent compter sur des ouvertures de boutiques pour accroître leurs ventes.

Grâce à une stratégie digitale très poussée lancée il y a cinq ans, Burberry a signé, avec Hermès, une des meilleures croissances organiques du secteur en 2014. "L'omnicanal est un levier de croissance et de présence absolument indispensable. Les groupes de luxe n'ont pas d'autre choix que d'être sur tous les canaux de distribution", note Marc-André Kamel, associé de Bain & Co, qui observe que chez les jeunes de 15 à 25 ans, "un produit qui n'existe pas sur un smartphone n'existe pas tout court".

LVMH "EN TRAIN DE S'ADAPTER"

Le succès du site ouvert par Cartier (groupe Richemont <cfr.vx)>aux Etats-Unisa fait prendre conscience au secteur que des produits pouvaient être vendus en ligne à des prix très élevés sans dégrader leur image. La conversion annoncée de Chanel - la marque qui ne vend que des cosmétiques en ligne a annoncé qu'elle serait prête pour le multicanal à la fin 2016 - et la flambée boursière de Yoox après son rapprochement avec le site Net-a-Porter, (Richemont), témoignent aussi de l'intérêt stratégique de ce canal de distribution.

Bernard Arnault, PDG de LVMH, a reconnu devant les actionnaires du groupe que "de plus en plus de produits vont se vendre sur Internet" et déclaré que le groupe "était en train de s'adapter à cette évolution". Acheter un produit en ligne et pouvoir le faire livrer en magasin ou commander dans un magasin un produit indisponible pour le faire livrer à domicile font partie des services devenus incontournables. Et LVMH "entend les proposer à l'avenir pour la plupart de ses marques", aux dires de son directeur financier, Jean-Jacques Guiony.

Chez Louis Vuitton, les ventes en ligne représentent environ 2% à 3% du chiffre d'affaires, selon les analystes. Mais le malletier reste, selon un gérant d'actifs, "encore loin d'une expérience omnicanal globale", même s'il est plus avancé que d'autres comme Prada, Dior ou Hermès qui ne vendent qu'une poignée de sacs en ligne, sans parler de Céline, autre marque de LVMH, qui ne dispose pas de site marchand. Estimant que "l'omnicanal doit faire partie des services proposés aux clients", Axel Dumas, gérant d'Hermès, a évoqué à l'occasion des résultats annuels du sellier "des investissements assez lourds en 2015-2016 dans les systèmes informatiques et le site".

MUTATION

Chez Gucci (Kering), aux prises avec une délicate relance, le multicanal "compte parmi les priorités", a fait savoir le directeur financier du groupe, Jean-Marc Duplaix. La griffe, qui réalise environ 3% à 4% de ses ventes en ligne, selon les estimations, entend lancer cette année une nouvelle plate-forme de e-commerce.

Le digital est aussi synonyme d'une profonde mutation du "business model" du luxe car vendre en ligne n'est pas simple techniquement et difficile à mettre en place (répartition des produits entre les différents canaux de distribution, gestion des stocks, logistique de livraison), relève Marc-André Kamel.

Les marques savent qu'elles ne peuvent y échapper mais "n'arrivent pas encore à maîtriser l'infrastructure leur permettant de proposer une boutique en ligne totalement optimisée", résume Uche Pézard, directrice exécutive du cabinet Luxe Corp. Soucieuses de pouvoir assurer un service sans défaut, conforme à l'image qu'elles véhiculent, certaines griffes préfèrent retirer des produits de leur site car elles n'arrivent pas encore à optimiser leurs systèmes et ne veulent pas décevoir les clients.

DIFFICILE DE MODIFIER LA CULTURE D'ENTREPRISE

Toutes n'en sont pas au même stade de réflexion (environ 35% des marques de luxe ne vendent pas en ligne) et le fossé culturel reste important avec le monde de la technologie. "Le plus difficile, c'est peut être de modifier la culture d'entreprise et les hommes. C'est de leur expliquer que c'est un bien et non un mal pour les magasins", note l'associé de Bain.

L'Europe continentale est d'ailleurs plus rétive que le Royaume-Uni ou les Etats-Unis. La part du e-commerce dans les produits de luxe y est estimée entre 2% à 3%, contre 7%-8% au Royaume-Uni et 10% aux Etats-Unis. De l'avis général, si les perspectives sont prometteuses en Europe et aux Etats-Unis, elles semblent encore éloignées en Chine où les marques sont confrontées à l'explosion du marché gris qui représente, selon Bain, 15% des achats de produits de luxe effectués dans le monde par la clientèle chinoise.

Tant que d'authentiques produits seront vendus sur des sites chinois 30% moins cher que dans les magasins, les marques ne voudront guère ouvrir leurs propres sites dans le pays. Le digital, qui est aussi une source d'amélioration de la rentabilité - il élève le taux de ventes au mètre carré et allège les dépenses publicitaires - pourrait compter pour 40% de la croissance du marché mondial du luxe attendue d'ici à 2020, soit environ 35 milliards sur les 88 milliards d'euros prévus, selon les estimations d'Exane BNP Paribas.

[RETROUVER L'ARTICLE DANS L'USINE DIGITALE]

 April 7, 20, Jing Daily

“I won’t die in peace unless you are married,” says one parent in new SK-II ad about “leftover women” in China

A new ad campaign by luxury cosmetics brand SK-II addresses a social issue in China that doesn’t usually receive much attention in the country’s commercial scene: the plight of sheng nu, or “leftover women.”

If one wasn’t aware of how twenty-something single women are traditionally viewed by their parents’ generation in China, the start of the four-minute-long video ad strikingly makes it clear. It begins by juxtaposing a montage of photographs of young girls with audio phrases from their parents, such as, “I won’t die in peace unless you are married,” “Don’t be so free willed,” and “You’re too picky.”

Chinese women are put under an incredible amount of social pressure to get married, so much so that businesses pop up around Chinese New Year that give single women (and men) the opportunity to rent a boyfriend or girlfriend to fool and appease their family over the holidays. The term sheng nu is a derogatory one used for those who haven’t found a husband by their mid to late twenties.

For the women featured in the film, this term brings on feelings of guilt. “Not getting married is a sign of disrespect,” says one woman before tearfully apologizing to the camera for disappointing her family.

Then, in an emotional turn of events, the women head to the Marriage Market in Shanghai, where parents normally go to browse the “resumes” of potential suitors for their daughters. This time, however, the women would be the ones delivering a message to their parents.

The parents find beautiful photos of the women at the market, each paired with statements of confidence like, “I don’t want to get married just for the sake of marriage. I won’t live happily that way.”

This touching film, produced by Swedish ad agency Forsman & Bodenfors, is the latest installment of SK-II’s global #changedestiny campaign, which encourages women to “change their DNA” to take control of their future. SK-II’s website has additional short films that show women having courage to change their DNA, including one starring Chinese actress Tang Wei and another featuring Chief Strategy Officer for Ebay Greater China Vvivi Hu.

In the case of the sheng nu campaign, the confident subjects behind #changedestiny speaks volumes to affluent Chinese women. A 2014 report by Grant Thornton International showed that about 63 percent of Chinese businesses have female CFOs, and women are going to great lengths to have their own eggs frozen so that they can put things like having children—and marriage—second to their successful careers.

So far, the “Marriage Market Takeover” Youtube video has more than 250,000 hits after two days of being released, and its WeChat post is quickly catching up with more than 100,000 pageviews and a growing number of comments of encouragement from supportive fans.

Credits:

Brand Director: Kylene Campos
Art Direction: Sophia Lindholm and Karina Ullensvang
Director: Floyd Russ
Digital Producer: Peter Gaudiano
Film Editor: Cut + Run
Production: Tool of North America
Producer: Alexander Blidner