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    Peut-on lancer de nouvelles marques "pépites" en France ? [#cosmetique #distribution #indies]

    Paru dans Cosmetiquemag, Mars 2016, Angélique Vallez d'Erceville

    Alors que des pépites américaines ou britanniques font le buzz et s'invitent dans les rayons, les petites nouvelles sont rarement françaises. Avec ses marques patrimoniales et la maturité de son marché, l'Hexagone s'apparente à une montagne difficile à franchir.

    «En France, l'espace est encombré avec une très forte concentration de la distribution . Le ticket d'entrée est très élevé.La percée de nouvelles marques est sans doute plus facile au Royaume-Uni ou aux États-Unis.» [Philippe Jourdan]

    «Trois conditions sont nécessaires pour réussir : avoir une histoire , un actif qui fait la différence et être appuyé par un groupe avec des moyens ,car il faut injecter des millions d'euro dans la machine.» [Laurent Pelletier, directeur général d'IXI]

    «Quand un marché est mature, les routines se figent. Les détourner devient plus compliqué et plus coûteux. les Françaises attendent certes de nouvelles franchises, mais plutôt de la part des marques existantes" [Philippe Jourdan]

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    Catch me if you can: Marketing to the new Chinese luxury shopper from @slierre [#china #luxury #shopper]

    With Chinese consumers massively shopping for luxury abroad and online, traditional marketing formulas have limited impact. It is time for luxury brands to rethink their go-to-market approach, putting digital at the core.

    Wei proudly shows her latest catch: a colorful textured leather mini handbag she bought during her last business trip to Paris. Wei epitomizes the shopper the whole luxury industry seems to be after at the moment: a start up entrepreneur from Hangzhou and representative of China’s ‘Cultured Youth’, she is both very success driven and hungry for culture.

    In fact, she is part of the upcoming generation of Chinese shoppers who are redefining luxury marketing through a triple change: structural change in the market dynamic, change in consumers attitude towards luxury and change in how they navigate the world through digital.

    [READ FULL ARTICLE]

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    Luxury brands are putting more weight into sustainability [#lvmh #gucci #kering]

    Blog Entry by Vikas Vij in Corporate Social Responsibility

    (3BL Media/Justmeans) – Luxury product consumers have increasingly become vocal about social and environmental causes, and more importantly, are willing to make a difference through their buying choices. Luxury companies also face increased attention from investors who want to know about a company’s sustainability practices before they invest.

    Positive Luxury has a released a new report titled “2016 Predictions for the Luxury Industry: Sustainability and Innovation,” which examines impactful events from 2015 to forecast how the increasing recognition of climate change concerns will impact luxury in 2016.

    Diana Verde Nieto, co-founder of Positive Luxury, London, said that sustainability will help luxury brands to de-risk their business and remain competitive. Together with the Luxury Institute, Positive Luxury conducted interviews with opinion leaders in the luxury lifestyle space, which included LVMH, Kering, Forevermark, IWC and the British Fashion Council, among others.

    During the Paris climate summit, French luxury conglomerate LVMH took the opportunity to showcase its sustainability practices. LVMH, which owns brands such as Louis Vuitton and Bulgari, shared insights about its sustainability programs and strategies on its corporate Facebook account.

    Kering, which owns brands such as Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Puma, is helping the world visualize its environmental impact with an interactive environmental profit and loss statement. To ensure transparency, Kering has presented this interactive statement on its website, depicting the various steps in production and environmental categories where it is making an impact.

    Brands such as Saint Laurent and Christian Dior have implemented tactics that are environmentally sound. For instance, three Saint Laurent storefronts have been given the highest LEED certification, while Dior has incorporated responsible lighting in a number of its international boutiques.

    Additionally, brands are becoming more conscious about protecting the resource supply chain. Prada has purchased the French tannery Tannerie Mégisserie Hervy to ensure the skills held by its workers are preserved. In a similar move, Chanel purchased French lamb hide tannery Bodin-Joyeux in 2013.

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    Rich Chines splurge on sportswear as luxury's lustre dims [#china #sportswear #luxury]

    By Donny Kwok and Farah Master, Euronews.com, 18/02/2016

    HONG KONG (Reuters) – GPS sport watches, compression leggings and hydration packs are the new must-haves for wealthy Chinese, pumping up the multi-billion dollar sportswear industry at a time when China’s elite are reining in spending on more traditional luxury brands.

    Extreme sports apparel and expensive active wear is in vogue thanks in part to government promotion of sport ahead of the 2022 Winter Olympics in Beijing, and the purchase of the Ironman brand by China’s richest tycoon last year.

    The market is also forecast to grow with the government’s decision to relax its one-child policy after 36 years, and companies like U.S.-listed Under Armour <UA.N> and Canada’s Lululemon Athletica Inc <LULU.O> are lining up to cash in.

    “It is huge – that wellness and healthy lifestyle opportunity in the whole of China,” said Colin Grant, chief executive of the Hong Kong-headquartered Pure Group, an operator of gyms, yoga, retail and nutrition businesses across Asia. “Luxury has its challenges but active wear is a bright spot in the industry. Some people wear it to weddings in China.”

    China will host its first ever Ironman events this year after billionaire property developer Wang Jianlin bought World Triathlon Corp for $650 million. The deal is set to capitalise on a growing fitness craze which saw 134 marathon and road-running races held across the country last year, up 160 percent from 2014, according to the Chinese Athletic Association.

    As part of its promotion of sport and healthier living generally, the government says that by 2025, more than 900,000 stadiums and gyms will have been built across the country.

    For Under Armour and Lululemon Athletica, two of the Western brands already active in China, the country offers an opportunity to grow outside the mature markets of the United States and Europe.

    No. 2 U.S. sportswear maker Under Armour expects China sales to leap 25 percent a year until 2018, while Vancouver-based yogawear giant Lululemon says its first Hong Kong store is on track to make $8 million in sales this year. But they face a strong field of Chinese rivals such as ANTA <2020.HK>, Xtep <1368.HK> and 361 Degrees <1361.HK> whose share prices soared between 34 percent and 56 percent last year.

    That compares with traditional luxury titans like Italy’s Prada <1913.HK> – a maker of fancy handbags – which sank 45 percent on the Hong Kong exchange last year as Beijing’s clampdown on corruption and China’s slowest economic growth in 25 years forced China’s elite to change their spending habits.

    Some of the money once spent on French wine and Italian leather now appears to be flowing into high-end heart-rate monitors and running shoes.

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    Don’t discount China’s appetite for luxury goods [#China #luxury #Gucci]

    The domestic Chinese market for luxury goods may be struggling, but investors shouldn’t discount the huge amount of high-end products Chinese tourists buy, as the forecast-beating results from Kering – owner of Gucci – testify.

    Luxury goods maker Kering gave the markets a pleasant surprise on Friday as earnings at its flagship Gucci luxury brand thrashed expectations and raised hopes of more good things to come as more new designs are set to be introduced this year.

    Gucci revenue advanced 4.8%, compared with the 1.5% growth analysts anticipated – the brand’s strongest result in three years. However, while the company reported that conditions in Hong Kong and Macau (China’s luxury market bellwethers) were still lacklustre, there is hope for the sector more broadly.

    The domestic Chinese market for luxury goods may be struggling, but investors shouldn’t discount the huge amount of high-end products Chinese tourists buy.

    Indeed, they spent $116.8 billion (£87 billion)) on luxury when abroad in 2015, according to China Daily.

    [READ MORE]

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    Next wave of store closings may hit luxury [NYC] [#CNBC #NYC #fifthavenue]

    CNBC, 17/02/2016.

    It isn't every day you see a sign boasting 40 percent off in the window of a luxury shop. But as real estate executive Andy Graiser walked past one of Prada's New York City boutiques a week before Christmas, that's exactly what he encountered.

    Though the design house is working through some internal issues (namely, products that have fallen flat with their target demographic), Graiser, founder of A&G Realty, said such deep discounting at a luxury shop is indicative of broader woes across the luxury space — troubles that could result in the segment being next in line to trim its store fleet.

    The problems that luxury firms are battling are twofold. For one, they're facing macroeconomic pressures including a sinking stock market, stalled global growth and a stronger dollar, all of which discourage the high-end consumer from spending. For another, they're trying to sell their wares to a group of shoppers who have become less focused on material goods, and are instead more interested in dining out or travel — a trend that could have long-term implications for the industry.

    Due to these factors and an overall glut of retail space in the U.S., Graiser predicts luxury retailers will be next in line to close some stores, as they try to compete in a country that has more than two times the retail space per capita than the United Kingdom, France, Brazil and Germany combined.

    "There are real issues with some of these luxury players," Graiser said. "There's going to be a lot more closures that are going to be occurring."

    [READ THE FULL ARTICLE]

     

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    Berluti, Brioni, Zegna: les départs de leurs directeurs artistiques [#mode #luxe #prêt-à-porter]

    From : Martin Betant, luxe.net, 15/02/2016

    Décidément, les derniers temps sont placés sous le signe du changement pour bon nombre de maisons de luxe. Aujourd’hui, ce sont les maisons Berluti, Brioni et Zegna qui se sont séparées de leurs directeurs artistiques: Brendan Mullane, Alessandro Sartori et Stefano Pilati

    Après les départs en fin d’année 2015 de Raf Simons (Dior), d’Alber Elbaz (Lanvin), d’Alexander Wang (Balanciaga) et des récentes spéculations de départ d’Hedi Slimane du groupe Saint Laurent, trois nouvelles maisons de luxe ont annoncé le départ de leurs directeurs artistiques

    C’est le célèbre bottier Berluti , marque du groupe LVMH, qui a annoncé en premier le départ de son directeur artistique, Alessandro Sartori. Le créateur Italien de 49 ans occupait ce poste depuis le 1er Juillet 2011 et est à l’origine du fort développement international de l’entreprise française ainsi que de l’extension des collections de prêt-à-porter de la marque.

    (...)

    Un jour seulement après cette annonce, c’est au tour de la maison Brioni du groupe Kering de se séparer de Brendan Mullane, son directeur artistique depuis 2012, après avoir notamment travaillé pour Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Burberry ou encore Givenchy.

    (...)

    Enfin, c’est la maison Ermenegildo Zegna qui clos le bal -pour le moment- des départs de directeurs artistiques: Stefano Pilati. Le créateur avait rejoint la maison italienne dédiée à l’élégance masculine en 2012, après avoir exercé comme directeur de la création du prêt-à-porter chez Yves Saint Laurent. Selon certaines rumeurs, Stefano Pilati serait en lice pour prendre la direction artistique de la marque Lanvin, laissée vacante depuis le départ d’Alber Elbaz en octobre dernier. Des nombreux remaniements sont donc à prévoir entre toutes ces maisons de luxe…

    [LIRE L'ARTICLE EN ENTIER]

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    Social media changes the way fashion brands introduce their new looks. [#digital #fashion #luxury]

    This content originally appeared on Internet Retailer. By Simona Marmina, Fashion and Luxury Strategist

    In the past, fashion shows were private and highly exclusive events. Labels relied upon elite influencers to disseminate new styles through a sort of chain reaction. In recent years, the process of revealing a new line has changed dramatically. Thanks to a rise in fashion blogging and social sharing, luxury brands now have a direct line to the whole audience they care about reaching on the same day new styles are revealed.

    Today, high fashion styles spread at high speed. Of course, social media plays a primary role in that spread. 

    In the next few weeks, Fashion Week events will dot the globe. These shows are highly anticipated and will be followed by fashion enthusiasts around the world. So, how should luxury fashion brands go above and beyond traditional social media efforts to capitalize on the Fashion Week momentum?

    LEARN MORE ABOUT THE FOUR SUCESSFUL DIGITAL STRATEGIES FOR LUXURY BRANDS

    Lire la suite

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    Les ventes de #Prada stagnent en 2015 [#chine #luxe #italie]

    (Boursier.com)Prada n'a pas été épargné par le ralentissement économique chinois ainsi que par la campagne anti-corruption dans le pays. Le groupe de luxe italien a vu son chiffre d'affaires consolidé reculer de 0,2% sur l'exercice clos fin janvier, à 3,54 milliards d'euros. Un niveau en ligne avec les attentes des analystes. L'affaiblissement du yuan et une évolution du goût en faveur de produits plus abordables ont également pesé sur les ventes aux touristes en visite à Hong Kong, entre novembre et janvier.

    [RETROUVER LA BREVE SUR BOURISER.COM]

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    Les Chinois ont acheté près de 50% des produits de luxe en 2015 selon #lequotidiendupeuple

    Les consommateurs chinois ont dépensé 1,2 billions de yuans (164 milliards d'euros) à l'étranger en 2015. 

    Plus de 60% d'entre eux ont acheté des produits de luxe. Au total, quelque 105 milliards d'euros ont été dépensés en sacs à main, cosmétiques et autres accessoires pour smartphones. Une somme qui représente 46% des ventes mondiales dans ce secteur, selon Le Quotidien du Peuple. Le ministère chinois du Commerce estime ainsi que la capacité de consommation du pays à l'international a augmenté de 27,8% par an entre 2005 et 2015, soit le double de celle du marché intérieur. 

    Plus de 120 millions de touristes chinois ont voyagé à l'étranger l'an dernier, leurs dépenses atteignant au moins 12% de la consommation globale du pays. Mais parallèlement à cela, le ralentissement de la consommation intérieure préoccupe le gouvernement.

    Les marques de luxe prises d'assaut à l'étranger
    De fait, les prix des produits importés restent élevés comparés aux marchés étrangers. Les tarifs de 37 produits haut de gamme sont ainsi 40% à 68% plus élevés que ceux pratiqués aux États-Unis, en France et en Allemagne. 

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    • Pour en savoir plus sur notre cycle de Conférences : "Chine et Luxe : enjeux et perspectives" : contacter valerie.Jourdan@promiseconsultinginc.com