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luxury goods

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    [#PromiseConsulting][#luxurylab] Quand la souveraineté nationale dépasse l'intérêt pour le luxe

    Les récentes manifestations ayant lieu à Hong Kong pour son indépendance ont poussé le gouvernement Chinois a rappelé les marques de luxe à l'ordre.

    Les géants du luxe comme Givenchy, Versace et Coach sont accusés de véhiculer des messages à l’encontre de la souveraineté chinoise sur Taïwan et Hong Kong. Les marques proposent des tee-shirts comprenant les inscriptions suivantes : Paris - FRANCE ; Shanghai - CHINA ; Hong Kong - HONG KONG. Certains influenceurs chinois ont donc pris leur distance des marques voire même de leurs sponsors : La mannequin Liu Wen a déclaré que « la souveraineté nationale et l’intégrité territoriale de la Chine sont en tout temps sacrées et inviolables ! »

    Autre exemple, en 2018, GAP avait fabriqué des tee-shirts représentant la carte de la Chine et sur laquelle Taïwan n'apparaissait pas. Ce genre de communication n'est pas judicieuse dans un contexte où la tension monte régulièrement entre la jeunesse chinoise et le gouvernement. 

    Ainsi si le poids des marques de luxe en Chine est loin d'être négligeable, l'attachement à la souveraineté de sa population est bien plus forte. 

    VOIR PLUS

    Article de Hugo Lehner

     

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    [#PromiseConsulting][#luxurylab]#Chanel, star de l'été [#brand]

    Instagram ne parle que de ça, un maillot de bain bicolore blanc et noir, qui rappelle une pièce imaginée par Karl Lagerfeld 20 ans plus tôt. 

    C'est durant le dernier défilé organisé par Karl Lagarfeld en Octobre 2018 pour la collection Printemps-Ete 2019 que nous avons pu apercevoir la fameuse pièce. Sur instagram les influenceuses s'affichent avec en photo sur la plage pendant que d'autres la portent en ville comme aperçu lors du défilé. 

    Nous n'avons pas finis de revoir des pièces inspirées des nineties chez nos marques favorites cette saison, "la mode se démode le style jamais" de Coco Chanel est à nouveau démontré. 

    [VOIR PLUS]

    Article de Héloïse Salessy

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    Can Sales and Personal Luxury Goods work together?

    paris sales, luxury, personal luxury gods

     

     

    CLIQUER ICI POUR LE LIRE EN FRANCAIS

    BY PHILIPPE JOURDAN, CEO PROMISE CONSULTING, ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR, IAE GUSTAVE EIFFEL, UNIVERSITY EAST PARIS

     

    The period for summer sales is over.  

    sales, paris, lur, personal luxury goodsThat’s the occasion for merchants to potentially compensate the disappointing first part of the year. Luxury ready-to-wear manufacturers also consider adopting that demarche. Still, at first, sales and luxury don’t look compatible. Besides the potential negative impact of systematic sold off prices, luxury brands are subject to several typical issues. Let’s select three of these to keep it simple.  

    Firstly, sales are meant to effuse products at the end of a season for a certain period. 

    The aim is to effuse in order to facilitate the start of the new collection and thus constantly renew trends in ready-to-wear. Marketing horizon is used to distinguish three cycles in accordance with their duration:

    1: Trend is based on short-term and aims – through a muse or an event - to engender attraction for a haircut, a design, a look, a specific color for ready-to-wear items.

    2: Fashion is based on longer cycles that are commended by the rhythm of fashion parades / collections.

    3: Style (very important for Coco Chanel) is timeless, continuously revisited but timeless as independent from fashion/trends.

    A real luxury brand is naturally attached to style or even fashion, but always refuses to follow ephemeral trends. Sales should logically avoid it. At the same time, luxury ready-to-wear consists in renewing collections and wardrobes... but above all, shouldn’t a luxury ready-to-wear item be timeless? Thus, we should logically think that a timeless clothes, i.e. the reflect of a style, shouldn’t be subject to sales. Hence for handbags, items like Kelly or Birkin by Hermès is not supposed to be sold off... especially considering the fact that its (more) expensive price is justified by the brand’s heritage and history. Some brands understand this and systematically refuse sales for that precise reason.

    Secondly, sales lead to the threat of price control on the luxury worldwide market.

    For several years, luxury brands try to control their selling prices by selling each product at the same price everywhere in the world. A real difficulty if we take into account the different exchange rates and duties that may justify consequent gaps on prices. Such gaps can hardly be justified when clients mostly consists in men or women who are used to travel and visit the same brands’ boutiques – even abroad. Today, that situation is better handled vs. the recent time when Japanese tourists were rushing in Louis Vuitton’s French boutiques to buy many handbags before redistributing these once back in Japan! Now, sales may not be compatible with harmonization efforts by recreating that price gap during limited but unavoidable periods. American specialists in ready-to-wear for instance propose discounts that can equal 50 or 60% while in Europe, private sales for last year’s collection don’t exceed -30%. That literally leads to real speculative bubbles: sales are expected somewhere in the world with the possibility to discreetly pre-reserve items that are displayed on fashion parades by privileged clients. Such gaps on prices wouldn’t matter if flows were marginal. That’s not always the case and many items are then available on EBay, which confirms that purchase is speculation.

    Thirdly, the evolution of the profile of luxury brands’ clients leads to questions concerning the interest of sales.

    Main department stores in Paris illustrate the deep evolution of main brands’ clients. The weight of touristic/temporary clients   has significantly progressed to the detriment of national clients. For some part of the day, boutiques are mostly filled with tourists including a strong proportion of Asian visitors. Tour operators have understood the opportunity for themselves: nowadays, their catalogues and websites propose a selection of towns and dates in accordance with sales periods! That demarche is not likely to be benefic for luxury brands: on short-term, they may improve their turnover but on a longer term, their image may be eroded and may lose their historical national clients’ loyalty. Besides, sold off luxury clothes for tourists constitute a loss in opportunities: some would buy the items without sales, whether because they can’t find it in their country or because they just want it (after all, shopping is also a pleasure for touristic journeys).

    Let’s end with that quote from François Gaston de Lévis: "past is sold, present escapes you, think about the future”. All marketers should be inspired.